a perfect squidgy tart
The filling is somewhere between a classic frangipane and a Torta de Santiago – robust, gutsy and happy to absorb slugs of alcohol. And that’s the kind of tart we like.
a perfect squidgy tart
The filling is somewhere between a classic frangipane and a Torta de Santiago – robust, gutsy and happy to absorb slugs of alcohol. And that’s the kind of tart we like.
“the perfect panna cotta should wobble like a woman’s breast”
This was the edict of an Italian silver haired chef handed down when I dared to go discuss in the kitchen and ask for his recipe in a small hilltop town outside Rome. I did not argue nor press on detail (silicone? age specific wobbles?) because it was obvious that all things round and wobbly were a good thing in his book. Now if metaphors of the flesh are a bit too much for a humble milk jelly then just know that when pushed it should react like a jelly and it should feel like a delicate custard that melts in the mouth.
The turned out version:
One word of warning, while making panna cotta is simplicity itself turning them out can be nerve wracking – especially after a few drinks at a dinner party. The cheating solution is to serve in the glass you made them in but if you want to turn out then lower the mould you have used (a rounded cappucino cup with no angles/nooks and crannies for the panna cotta to adhere to when you are trying to turn it out is really still the best thing) into a deep tray or bowl of boiling water for 2 minutes. This melts the gelatine on the outside. Lift out very carefully. Skim around the edge with a small knife. Place a serving plate over the top and invert. Now decorate your masterpiece.
So now …back to the Panna Cotta…
Panna Cotta or “cooked cream” is another one of those oh so simple Italian dishes that relies on simple but good ingredients. Its essentially a cream jelly that is set with gelatine. It can be embellished and enriched by adding white chocolate which means that you need a little less gelatine. I like to do this because I think it has a greater “melt in your mouth” feel.
I’ve written the Romanian first because its quite tricky to get the right cream.
How To
First dissolve your gelatine in the cold water – it will kind of go spongy and absorb the water. I like to wisk it so it kind of gets a little frothy and this way I know that its properly dissolved.
Heat the cream, sugar and milk on the stove until just boiling but be careful not to burn it and create brown bits of “stuff” floating in it.
Remove from the heat!
Throw in the white chocolate until it melts and is incorporated – dont stir until it has melted. Now add the vanilla.
Now give it a good whisk
Pour into cappuccino cups and place in the refrigerator (preferably overnight) (if you have other strong smelling food in the fridge then cover with cling film because dairy products absorb smells and odours like sponges)
The amount of fruit depends really if you want a fruit salsa dish with panna cotta or a panna cotta with a fruit salsa…I reckon 1 kg of strawberies makes a decent amount of salsa for 6. and what is left over blend into a smoothie.
Take half the fruit and cut into small cubes approx 1cm across.
The other half blend to a puree.
Shred basil leaves fairly finely as you dont actually want large leaves in this salsa but neither do you want the basil to be pureed because it would change the bright red colour into a dingy brown.
Add a little lemon juice if you like things tart.
Spoon the salsa on the panna cotta either in the glass or turned out and serve immediately.
The panna cotta can be made up to two days ahead. the salsa is best made fresh. If you are really in a rush skip the fiddly cube bits and just create a puree.
This is one of those soups that you do really need after a long, cold, dark winter. Nettles contain so many vitamins and have so many health benefits that you might consider this a blood purifying elixir (and far more civilised than leeches). Apart from the obvious “pain” of picking them and then choosing nice young leaves there isn’t really much to it. The “sting” is deactivated by heat so dont expect a “fugu” like experience! However if pain is what you seek then a dose of “urtication” (flogging with nettles that was believed to relieve palsy and numbness of limbs) might be in order. Enough medieval medicine…this soup is definitely twenty first century and this version is gluten and dairy free.
We are very lucky that in Romania people still gather new season nettles and sell them in plastic bags at the market. Traditionally a puree is made much like (to me at least) the French “epinards aux oeufs” which is absolutely delicious. Now the problem with such virtuous food is that if you don’t do quite enough to it you are in danger of creating something that tastes like juiced roadside weeds. So I add quite a lot of onions and garlic, a generous amount of nutmeg and I thicken with potato or rice.
These are a guide and make quite a lot of soup. If you don’t have so many nettles use more spinach or throw in some courgettes or cabbage.
500g young nettles the stalks and anything that looks remotely “woody” removed
500g spinach – preferably proper spinach not baby spinach. cleaned and well rinsed of sand/earth if using the real thing
1-2 onions – I like a lot of onions
2-6 cloves of garlic. I go for the full 6.
nutmeg – approx 1 heaped teaspoon
a few sprigs of fresh thyme if you have
1 litre of vegetable stock (a good bio brand works well but so does some water, a bit of marmite and a little leftover wine)
1 large boiled potato or a cup of boiled white rice. If not GF sensitive some slices of old white bread gone stale.
I would suggest bay leaves as well but they will get lost in the green and blended bay leaves render the soup so bitter that its inedible. dont risk it! or write an anally retentive stickit on the kitchen wall to REMOVE BAY LEAVES before blending. personal experience and the bitter taste of (in this case literally).
A large saucepan and a hand held blender/ whatever blender you have
Chop the onions up roughly (its going to be blended so no masterchef perfection required here). Fry them in a little oil gently until translucent. Now add the also roughly chopped garlic. do not let it brown.
Add the nettles and the liquid. Boil 2-3 minutes until the nettles are just cooked. Now throw on top the spinach leaves and let them wilt for a further 3-4 minutes. Stir through until the leaves are all floppy and “just cooked” in fact almost still raw.
Add your chosen starch – you dont have to – I just like my soups a bit more substantial.
Blend it!
Now season with the nutmeg, salt and pepper.
I’ve served it with a chilli/red pepper oil in the photo but a simple drizzle of good olive oil is all thats needed really and a hunk of good bread.
Freezes well but what you want here is freshness and the joy of tasting new season’s produce