a perfect squidgy tart
The filling is somewhere between a classic frangipane and a Torta de Santiago – robust, gutsy and happy to absorb slugs of alcohol. And that’s the kind of tart we like.
a perfect squidgy tart
The filling is somewhere between a classic frangipane and a Torta de Santiago – robust, gutsy and happy to absorb slugs of alcohol. And that’s the kind of tart we like.
“the perfect panna cotta should wobble like a woman’s breast”
This was the edict of an Italian silver haired chef handed down when I dared to go discuss in the kitchen and ask for his recipe in a small hilltop town outside Rome. I did not argue nor press on detail (silicone? age specific wobbles?) because it was obvious that all things round and wobbly were a good thing in his book. Now if metaphors of the flesh are a bit too much for a humble milk jelly then just know that when pushed it should react like a jelly and it should feel like a delicate custard that melts in the mouth.
The turned out version:
One word of warning, while making panna cotta is simplicity itself turning them out can be nerve wracking – especially after a few drinks at a dinner party. The cheating solution is to serve in the glass you made them in but if you want to turn out then lower the mould you have used (a rounded cappucino cup with no angles/nooks and crannies for the panna cotta to adhere to when you are trying to turn it out is really still the best thing) into a deep tray or bowl of boiling water for 2 minutes. This melts the gelatine on the outside. Lift out very carefully. Skim around the edge with a small knife. Place a serving plate over the top and invert. Now decorate your masterpiece.
So now …back to the Panna Cotta…
Panna Cotta or “cooked cream” is another one of those oh so simple Italian dishes that relies on simple but good ingredients. Its essentially a cream jelly that is set with gelatine. It can be embellished and enriched by adding white chocolate which means that you need a little less gelatine. I like to do this because I think it has a greater “melt in your mouth” feel.
I’ve written the Romanian first because its quite tricky to get the right cream.
How To
First dissolve your gelatine in the cold water – it will kind of go spongy and absorb the water. I like to wisk it so it kind of gets a little frothy and this way I know that its properly dissolved.
Heat the cream, sugar and milk on the stove until just boiling but be careful not to burn it and create brown bits of “stuff” floating in it.
Remove from the heat!
Throw in the white chocolate until it melts and is incorporated – dont stir until it has melted. Now add the vanilla.
Now give it a good whisk
Pour into cappuccino cups and place in the refrigerator (preferably overnight) (if you have other strong smelling food in the fridge then cover with cling film because dairy products absorb smells and odours like sponges)
The amount of fruit depends really if you want a fruit salsa dish with panna cotta or a panna cotta with a fruit salsa…I reckon 1 kg of strawberies makes a decent amount of salsa for 6. and what is left over blend into a smoothie.
Take half the fruit and cut into small cubes approx 1cm across.
The other half blend to a puree.
Shred basil leaves fairly finely as you dont actually want large leaves in this salsa but neither do you want the basil to be pureed because it would change the bright red colour into a dingy brown.
Add a little lemon juice if you like things tart.
Spoon the salsa on the panna cotta either in the glass or turned out and serve immediately.
The panna cotta can be made up to two days ahead. the salsa is best made fresh. If you are really in a rush skip the fiddly cube bits and just create a puree.
I remember foraging for rosehips in my Mum’s hippy phase (along with shaggy ink cap mushrooms, blackberries and all manner of hedgerow stuff with Richard Mabey’s “Food for Free” as our guide). My Mum made rosehip syrup to imbue us all with giant quantities of Vitamin C. It fermented so Mum added brandy to halt the fermentation process. Naturally she still made us drink it…which could explain a lot. I’ve never made the rosehip jam which is a store cupboard staple in Romania so I was super excited to be offered five litres of fresh rosehip paste to play with.
The fresh paste was way sweeter than I expected so I decided to add some lemons and lemon zest. I kind of followed my recipe for quince paste/ redcurrant jam where I add an equal amount of sugar to the fruit pulp or I make a 40:60 ratio. Here I combined 2.5kgs of fruit paste with 2kgs of sugar so in fact that’s roughly 45:55 ratio. It was easy to cook up and the colour is a lovely rusty red. Cant wait to use it in my Almond & Sherry Tart. A small tip: my grandmother always insisted that to make good jam you need to make small quantities and she was
right. Unless you have a classic copper jam pan you risk having a small surface area for rapid boiling and jam that is “too deep”. Then the jam doesn’t set fast and you also risk having a temperature differential between the top of the jam and the base so your jam burns. So like many things in life the best come in small packages.
Made approx 18 medium jars
2.5kgs rosehip paste
2.0kgs sugar
Juice and zest of 2 lemons
Gadgets & Gizmos: Just your best quality saucepan with the thickest base possible and a sharp wooden palette to check the jam is not sticking.
Clean jars in the oven at 100C and lids soaked in bicarbonate of soda
How To
Leave to cool and enjoy the “popping” sound as the jar lids contract!