Baked “Pastrav Afumat” (Smoked Trout) fishcakes

These fishcakes are the posh version of the smoked mackerel fishcake (same method and quantities) and are just a little bit more subtle and refined. Romania teems with decent trout and its easy to find the smoked version. I often flake it into a rucola salad and add some citrus slices and a light vinaigrette for a fast lunch or dinner party starter. But as a comfort food you can’t beat the combination of mashed potato, smoked fish and a crunchy coating. The beauty of this recipe is that it can be served as a starter with a tzatiki sauce or as a main course with some green salad, crudités or a beetroot salad.

These are easy to make and instead of frying them, I bake them, which reduces the fat content dramatically, stops your kitchen smelling like a fish and chip shop and lets you do other things while they bake!

Gadgets & Gizmos

A baking tray, a potato masher is handy but a fork will do

Ingredients: serves four

600g of mashed potato (no butter or milk added)

200g smoked trout

A bunch of parsley roughly chopped

A bunch of spring onions finely chopped

Some lemon zest (1 lemon)

Salt and pepper

1 egg for the mixture

1 egg for the coating process beaten in a shallow bowl

1 packet of breadcrumbs, ‘panko” if you can find them, or home made slightly coarse ones.

You can also flavor with horseradish or tarragon – whatever your favorite fish flavorings are.

How To

Cut and peel the potatoes (approx 650-700g before peeling and cooking) and boil in salted water.

As the potatoes boil, line the baking tray with aluminum foil or baking paper. Brush with oil. (do this before your hands are covered in potato fish mixture, which of course I have never tried to do at all).

Beat the one egg in a shallow bowl.

Cover a plate with a thick layer of breadcrumbs.

Cook the potatoes until they are nice and soft and “mash-able”. Drain them and mash/crush with a fork. They do not need to be a perfect puree- a little potato texture is nice here. Don’t be tempted to blend or blitz or else you will end up with potato glue – handy for wallpapering but not what we want here. The potato mash should cool down fairly quickly – I speed things up by running cold water over them as I drain them in a colander. The mix should be cool when you add the fish.

Flake the fish, keeping an eye out for bones. Do this with your fingers because then you are more likely to feel any errant bones.

Mix in the parsley, lemon zest, salt, pepper and one egg

Scoop into little patties and mold with your hands.

With a fork and spoon dip into the beaten egg mixture and drop carefully onto the breadcrumbs. Roll around (the fishcakes not you) until coated and place on the baking tray.

Bake for 30 mins at 180C. You may need to turn them over once to achieve an even golden color on both sides.

Enjoy with a tzatiki sauce or even a tahini and coriander sauce as pictured here due to the yoghurt running out. Garnish with lemon wedges if you want extra lemon flavor.

“Urda” Gnocchi with Parsley, Lemon and Almond pesto

A long time ago I tried to make gnocchi. The plot involved an Italian boyfriend, sleep deprivation and a fabulous walnut sauce. The plot, alas, got lost. The gnocchi dissolved into something akin to prisoner of war camp potato soup or being more charitable: wallpaper paste. The fabulous sauce dried up and was never used. The boyfriend sneered. I sulked. Fast forward a number of years, a desire to vanquish the gnocchi demon and a sneaking suspicion that some little dumplings made with “Urda” and sexed up with a fabulous pesto would work. And work they did… in fact they have been eaten twice in one week, once fresh and once frozen and both times equally beguiling.

Gnocchi work well with all manner of sauces but they seem particularly delicious with a more piquant sauce…this garlicky, lemony, almondy sauce does the trick. I discovered this pesto by accident: lemons, a load of garlic, some slightly limp parsley and a crumpled bag of apricot kernels on one of those nights when you look at your cupboard and think “is there a meal here”…and of course there always is. Now this pesto is one of my favorites. I have used it as a spread on crostini, drizzled over halloumi (amazing!) and with the gnocchi.

These gnocchi are fast, they freeze and they work with many sauces. Give them a go and you will have a wonderful earthy comfort food dish mastered perhaps a bit faster than I managed.

 

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Beetroot risotto with goat’s cheese

A simple but stunning “Romanian risotto” bursting with flavor and color. I have to credit my Mum for this ingenious recipe and helping me perfect it. Beetroot, local goat’s cheese, thyme and lovage are the key flavors here with the sweetness of the beetroot and lovage contrasting with the goat’s cheese. Making risotto is oddly hypnotic – stirring in circles, sipping a glass of wine and watching something slowly change form in front of you. Slow slow food indeed that is just so right on a chilly evening, glass in hand.

Use the best quality saucepan you have with a wide base unless you are the proud owner of a risotto pan. You want slow well conducted heat and a large surface area. I always used to cook risotto in a le Creuset casserole dish until it got lost in another move, the thick iron base of such pans is ideal. A wooden spatula with a straight edge (important). Other than these two basic but important items no special equipment is required.

Here I cook with my trusty sous chef

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